230 JOURNEY WITHOUT MAPS my satiric self-criticism as the ghost of Arnold of Rugby addressed his head prefect through my lips, We did not get away from Sakripie till nine-thirty; we had never before been so late in starting, for by ten the heat was always intense. The paths were rougher than any we had encountered since Zigita, and the storm gave us an indication of how impossible the route would be when the rains set in. Already the paths were turning into swamps and the men had sometimes to wade waist-deep in water. We were not taking the quickest route to Tapee, which would have involved two long and scorching days on a path cleared of shade, and the villagers we now passed saw white faces for the first time. They ran screaming beside us, waving sprays of leaves, until we reached the boundary of the village land; there they always stopped at some invisible line across the forest pati. Once they tried to seize my cousin's hammock and rush it triumphantly through a village, but Amedoo drew his sword and held them off. After five hours we reached Baplai. We were by this time among the Gio tribe, who live on the extreme edge of subsistence in the great bush. The steep pointed roofs were falling in, and the inhabit- ants were quite naked except for loin-cloths. They were so thin one expected to see the bones through the veneral sores. The presence of a 'civilised man', however, ensured their keeping a rest-house, one musty little hut with two rooms the size of large dog kennel, where, I suppose, Liberian Government agents slept if ever they came up into the Gio tribe, Mr. Nelson appeared from his own hut next door, He wore a pair of torn white trousers, backless slippers