194 JOURNEY WITHOUT MAPS they arrived, and I could foresee a long series of angry complaints. But I wouldn't consent to stay at Pala, (that would be to delay our arrival at Ganta too long), so I didn't wait for all the carriers to arrive, to get together and rebel, but walked off with a guide, the hammock-men and Amedoo. We went for more than three hours without pass- ing a village, and the path was wide enough for the sun to scorch us incessantly; for lunch we had to make a clearing with swords in the bush itself to gain enough shade. But in the small village we reached at last I learnt to my relief of a town not more than an hour and a half away. The village chief was hospitable, bringing out gourds of pakn wine for my carriers to drink, and I did not notice in time his unwillingness to offer his hand. Only after I had put out my own and he had reluctantly taken it did I see that it was covered with white sores. It may not have been leprosy, and in any case leprosy is only very slightly contagious, but it spoilt my food for me all that day. I never knew the name of the place we reached. It cannot have been Bamou, for we must have left that path. It had a guest-house in a little enclosure just outside the town. The chief was sullen and inhospit- able, he wouldn't provide a cooked meal for the carriers, nor would he allow them to sleep in the town. He said they would cause trouble there. I bought rice from him at the highest rate I had yet paid and he left again with his headman and a little train of disapproving ancients. The air was heavy with thunder. The carriers felt ifc-as they lay about in the verandah. I sat listening