84 JOURNEY WITHOUT MAPS the invoices and the soldiers spat and grinned and passed remarks and I wiped off the sweat. "This will take all day," the Customs man said. "Everything here except the tin of Epsom salts, the quinine and the iodine has got to pay duty." He explained that he would let me go through to Bola- hun if I left a deposit; any change would be sent after me; he calculated that four pounds ten would be sufficient guarantee. I extracted a bag of sixpenny- bits from the money-box without disclosing the auto- matic. But it wasn't quite the end. I had to pay two cents each for the eight forms on which my dutiable goods were to be set down in detail. I had to pay for two Revenue stamps, and I had to sign my name at the bottom of the eight blank sheets saying that the items listed above were correct I was completely in their power; they could fill up anything they liked on the forms. The alternative was to stay where I was for the night and have all my bags and bales opened. As it was I didn't escape so easily. The next day he sent a soldier over to Bolahun demanding another six pounds ten, and when the soldier went back empty-handed, he came himself, borne in a ham- mock the long rough path from Foya with four carriers and a couple of soldiers, a dirty white topee on his head and a ragged cigarette in the corner of his mouth. He swaggered across, the verandah, a little sour, mean, avaricious figure, grinning and friendly and furious and determined. He got his money, drank two glasses of whisky, smoked two cigarettes; thore was nothing one could do about it; it was im- possible to bribe an official who probably took a lion's ,share anyway of what he exacted.