64 JOURNEY WITHOUT MAPS sun; when they were young it soothed their head- aches; when they were older they smeared it on their big bellies to bring them ease in their confinement; when they were dying it lay like a sediment of salt on their dried-up breasts and in their pitted thighs. Here you could measure what civilisation was worth; looking back later to Kailahun from the villages of the Republic, where civilisation stopped within fifty miles of the coast, I could see no great difference. 'Workers of the World Unite"; I thought of the wide shallow slogans of political parties, as the thin bodies, every rib showing, with dangling swollen elbows or pock-marked skin, went by me to the market; why should we pretend to talk in terms of the world when we mean only Europe or the white races? Neither IJL.P. nor Communist Party urges a strike in England because the platelayers in Sierra Leone are paid sixpence a day without their food Civilisation here remained exploitation; we had hardly, it seemed to me, improved the natives' lot at all, they were as worn out with fever as before the white man came, we had introduced new diseases and weakened their resistance to the old, they still drank from polluted water and suffered from the same worms, they were still at the mercy of their chiefs, for what could a District Commisioner really know, shifted from district to district, picking up only a few words of the language, dependent on an inter- preter? Civilisation so far as Sierra Leone was con- cerned was the railway to Pendembu, the increased export of palm-nuts; civilisation, too, was Lever Brothers and the price they controlled; civilisation was the long bar in the Grand, the sixpenny wages.